'04 Mazda 3 2.3l Head Gasket Change Now No Spark - MazdaSpeeders.com
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-14-2016, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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'04 Mazda 3 2.3l Head Gasket Change Now No Spark

The car got over heated because of a coolant leak and wouldn't start because of no compression but the plugs would spark when we tested them. After breaking everything down, the head was warped so a machinist had to grind enough off to require a shim to make up for the space. Finally put everything together with new gaskets and got it timed correctly. I tried starting it and nothing. Pulled the plugs to test them and only 1 is getting a very short spark and the rest aren't sparking at all. Again the plugs were sparking fine before taking everything apart; Now they're not. The only thing I haven't tried is replacing the camshaft sensor. Anyone else have any suggestions on what else it could be that's preventing the engine to start?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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I've now replaced both camshaft and crankshaft sensors and still no spark. I'm stumped and will be getting rid of the car soon if I can't get it running so any suggestions for what to do next would be great.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 08:31 PM
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When an engine overheats enough, it can cause it to seize.

You say it overheated enough to warp the heads, it could be that it got fluids into where it shouldn't have and caused your engine to lock up.

I hear once your engine is no crank, no start and is locked, you're only choice is to go shopping for a replacement.
It happened to my moms car and now it's just sitting there because we need a new engine.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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It cranks just fine, though. The compression checks out; Just no spark. When the car overheated we tested for spark right after and it had spark :/ I'm beginning to think something isn't grounded or there's a loose wire some where but I'm not 100% sure how to check for that. I don't have a multi meter but I do have a test light. There's power to the coil. I'd really hate to pay $100 for a crank no start diagnosis and it just be a loose wire or something but that may be what I'm going for next.

Last edited by pierce389; 02-29-2016 at 02:29 PM.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 03:33 PM
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If you are sure you have power to all the coils and you know you have one plug that fires, use that known good coil and known good plug to check your other 3 coils and plugs. You may have inadvertently damaged a few coils? Maybe you aren't getting a good connection on your wire to coil or coil to plug?

Something about head removal though has me thinking timing may be worth going over 100% again. Check all of the alignments and re-verify.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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I had 1 plug sparking once the first time I put it together. Since then I've redone the timing twice and the last time I was 1,000% sure it was right but I could still have it wrong by the slightest some how. I did this exactly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7ddFXuIX9c. Also, if the timing was off wouldn't it start for a second and die? That was the case on my Honda(belt slipped) idk if it would be the same with Mazda since it's a chain instead of a belt.

I'm using a test light (only thing i have to test power with) and I'm getting power to all of the coils but when I put the it IN the coil and crank the engine I get nothing. I'll shoot a video of what I'm doing.

Can't upload here so here's the links. https://youtu.be/vCYLuEGN5n8 https://youtu.be/HrVMxmq5_os
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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I took a look at the wires going to the crankshaft sensor(keep in mind I am NOT the first person that's worked on this car. I've found plenty of weird shit on this thing already) and I noticed a few cuts in the wire cover so I peeled off the plastic covering and discovered what looks like a loose ground. I hate to see stuff like this especially when idk what to do with it.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 12:19 PM
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I don't think you get 12v DC out of the coil so using a testlight is not what you want to do on the plug end of your coil. You'll need a spark tester, you can get them for $5 to $10 at vato-zone.

That loose wire looks like a shield. It's there to block any RF interference on your signal wires. A shield can only function if it is connected to ground on ONLY ONE END. If you don't have a multi-meter you can check if that shield is grounded on the other end by clipping your test light to battery +, and probing the shield wire. If you get a light, do not attach the loose end to ground, just wrap it around your sensor wires and tape the end in place. If you do not get a light, ground that end on the block.

Did you check your crankshaft position sensor for damage? Camshaft position sensor? One of those sensors could have failed and may cause a no spark condition. Very unlikely that more than 1 coil failed at once, so I would lean towards replacing the crankshaft position sensor first if you know you have a good power & gnd to that sensor and the camshaft sensor.

Do you have the ability to grab the CEL codes?
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 02:51 PM
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i have a mazda 3 2004. The other day the car seemed to be losing power/not accelerating. I tapped on the gas and heard a backfire noise...saw white smoke from tailpipe...pulled over and turned off car. Looked like oil leaked all over the place. Went home...changed oil and oil filter..charged battery. Started car and within 1 minute the smoke was coming out tailpipe and oil leaked out again. Oil looks like black thick sludge. any ideas.
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